A local's guide to drinking well in a city that takes wine seriously
Granada sits between the Sierra Nevada and the Mediterranean, and the wines from this region — particularly from the Contraviesa hills south of the city — are some of Spain's most interesting and least known. These are high-altitude vineyards, some above 1,300 metres, producing wines with a minerality and freshness that surprises everyone who tries them. Barranco Oscuro, Calvente, and Cortijo El Cura are the names to look for — you won't find them outside Andalucía, and that's precisely what makes them worth seeking out here.
Bodega Castañeda on Calle Almireceros is one of the oldest bars in the city — dark wood, barrels stacked to the ceiling, and vermouth on tap from a barrel that has been refilled since the 1940s. Order a half-bottle of something from the Contraviesa, a plate of jamón ibérico, and a plate of queso curado with olive oil. This is Granada at its most timeless. The bar fills up fast after 13:30 — arrive early or stand at the bar (standing is perfectly acceptable and frankly more atmospheric).
La Gran Taberna near the cathedral is similar in spirit but more spacious. The wine list focuses on Andalusian wines — Sherry from Jerez, Montilla-Moriles from Córdoba, and the local Contraviesa wines. The staff are knowledgeable and happy to guide you if you are unfamiliar with southern Spanish wines. Order a fino or a manzanilla as an aperitivo — it is the most Andalusian thing you can do.
Entrebrasas near Plaza de los Lobos is the best natural wine bar in the city. A small, curated list that changes weekly — mostly Spanish producers, some French and Italian — with knowledgeable staff who can read your palate and match you with something you will love. The food is excellent too: wood-fired dishes that pair beautifully with whatever you are drinking. Thursday nights can be busy — book ahead or go early.
Taberna Alhambra is a newer addition to the scene, focusing on organic and biodynamic wines from small Spanish producers. The terrace is lovely in summer, and they do a Wednesday tasting flight for €12 that is an excellent introduction to Spanish natural wine if you have never tried it.
For a sunset glass, the terrace at Mirador de Morayma in the Albaicín has one of the best Alhambra views in the city. The wine list is good (heavy on Rioja and Ribera del Duero), but the view is the reason you go. Arrive by 19:30 in summer to get a terrace table — they do not take reservations for the terrace, and it fills up fast.
If Morayma is full, El Huerto de Juan Ranas on Calle de Atarazana is the backup — similar views, slightly smaller terrace, and a more creative wine list with some interesting orange wines and local varieties. Either way, watching the Alhambra turn from white to gold to amber while holding a glass of Contraviesa wine is one of the defining experiences of Granada.
Every Noor guest receives personal recommendations from someone who lives here — the places, the timing, and the details that no guidebook covers.
Explore the Collection →